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Tuesday, January 1, 2008

Taking the Plunge

After debating this for awhile, I've decided to take the plunge and start a blog as a way of keeping track of my sewing. Hopefully this will also motivate me to sew a bit more as well. That, or I'll spend so much time reading about other peoples sewing on PatternReview that this blog will dry up. Really the title should probably read "Keelysews.....sometimes"

In the spirit of starting off as I mean to go on, I'll talk about my latest sewing attempt.

I have decided I really need to start tackling my own wardrobe issues. Perhaps, that should be more my lack-of-wardrobe issues. :)

Anyway, a few weeks ago I decided I needed a cardigan for throwing on over T's. After the success I've had with the Ottobre gathered-neck Tee, I thought I'd try another Ottobre pattern, the knit jacket from Ottobre 2/2006. This is shown on the cover of the magazine and had caught my eye.




There were a few obvious changes needed. Firstly, the pattern only went to a size 48. While this will fit me quite nicely in the shoulders, I need a bit more around the rest of me. So I added 1 cm to each side seam to give me an extra 4cm width. Secondly, unlike the Tee pattern, the jacket pattern does not have extra fabric eased in for the bust. I hummed and haa-ed for a bit as I considered whether to just add the easing as per the Ottobre Tee or to do an FBA (full bust adjustment). I decided to go ahead with an FBA of an inch. As per the instructions in Fit For Real People, I slashed and spread and then closed the horizontal dart by rotating it out at the side seam. This left the inevitable bump out just below the armhole to be eased in to the side seam. Then I lengthened the front and back by 5cm as the jacket/cardy is quite short.

At that point I developed a form of 'analysis paralysis' as I spent an evening contemplating which of the numerous fabrics in my stash I should use as a muslin. It's the cheapskate in me I admit. :) I wanted to use a piece I wouldn't miss if it looked awful but at the same time I wanted it to match the rest of my limited wardrobe if it did work. Decisions, decisions, lol.

After sleeping on it for a night, I decided to use some black Panné velvet that has been aging in my stash for 2 or so years. It wasn't exactly screaming to be this jacket but it also wasn't suggesting anything else.

I probably shouldn't have bothered with an FBA. The easing in the bust area is just a bit much and has added quite a bit of "poofing" in the side seam. If I was going to wear this jacket fastened right up this might not show as the excess fabric would be pulled towards the front to cover my bust. I've played around and I'm thinking my best bet would be to actually sew out the dart at this point. I also think I should perhaps change the neckline shape to a v-neck. So, more playing to do.


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